Swimming Pool
Skimmer
Replacement
Ace leak detection has replaced thousands of skimmers since our inception in 1992. Make sure your swimming pool repairman is a state licensed swimming pool contractor.
Pool Wall Skimmers perform the important task of removing floating debris from the pool, before it sinks to the bottom and creates work for you or your automatic pool cleaner. Functionally, skimmers are quite simple. They attach to the top wall of the pool and underneath, to the skimmer pipe.
The interface of the plastic pool skimmer to the concrete pool creates many opportunities for problems to occur. Common skimmer problems include separation from the pool wall (beam), freeze damage, leaking, or collapsed, broken or separated plumbing pipes.
Pool wall skimmers need regular maintenance, repair and replacement.
In-ground Pool Skimmer Replacement
Skimmer replacement involves cutting the 2×2’ concrete pad on top of the skimmer and the concrete that surrounds the skimmer well. Then the skimmer is pried and pulled off the wall, and the pipe(s) beneath are cut-off. The new skimmer is secured to the wall and after plumbing is reconnected (and tested), the concrete pad is replaced over and around the new skimmer.
Skimmer replacement is often done during renovation, or by itself if necessary. Skimmer replacement costs at least $1,500 for an inground pool. Why so much money to replace a $75 plastic box? It is not a simple procedure, skimmer replacement is hard work!
To replace an inground pool skimmer, the concrete deck is cut around the skimmer, and then the concrete that encases the skimmer well must also be removed. Pry bars and small jackhammers can help remove the skimmer from the wall of the pool. After removal, a new skimmer is attached to the pool wall by plumbing it in place, and pinning bent rebar around the skimmer, pegged into the back of the pool wall. Leave a ½” gap on sides and front of skimmer (pool side) to parge in place with plaster. A wooden box or form is then built around the skimmer, and new concrete is poured around the skimmer body, but only about halfway up the skimmer, to hold it in place against the wall. To finish on the pool side, pack in thick and deep with pool plaster mix around where the skimmer meets the pool wall, on both sides and the bottom, all 3 sides of the skimmer opening. Backfill tightly around the skimmer, supporting the block of concrete wrapped around the skimmer. Tamp in place gravel for the top 3-4 inches above the backfill and concrete.
To pour a new concrete pad around the top, level with the pool deck, use plastic or wood crack strips around the skimmer, or use flat foam with tear off strip, like Deck-O-Foam to leave an expansion joint for caulking later. With 4 pieces of 3/8” rebar cut to fit, make a ‘tic-tac-toe’ board, tying together the rebar, to fit around the skimmer. Elevate the rebar cross off the gravel by 1-2”, so it will sit in the middle of the concrete pad. Now mix up a good concrete mix (sidewalk/driveway type), and pour it on top of the gravel, up to the very top edge or lip of the adjustable skimmer collar (remove the skimmer lid and duct tape the top, to keep the skimmer clean). Push into place and trowel smooth and level, and after 30 minutes, drag a broom across the surface for texture.
Pool Skimmer Plumbing
In-ground pool skimmers can have a single hole in the bottom, or they are also designed with 2 holes in the bottom. The two-hole design gives plumbers some flexibility in plumbing, and specifically it allows a pool builder to connect a main drain pipe into the skimmer, into the front hole, and connect the back hole to a pipe that runs to the pump. This is a cheaper way to build a pool, because you don’t have to run a separate drain pipe all the way to the pump, with a separate valve.
To replace skimmers not connected to the main drain, one of the holes will come with a plug. Pull out the plug, apply PVC glue and glue it into the front hole, to seal up the unused port permanently. Connect your skimmer pipe to the back hole, using a threaded PVC fitting that is either glued in place, or tightly installed with thread sealant. Run a straight pipe down to a 90 sweep elbow, or use two 45 fittings, to make a coupling connection to the skimmer pipe.
If your main drain pipe is tied into your skimmer, a float valve is used in the skimmer to control the amount of main drain water flow.